As Tim and I checked in for our American Airlines flight to Lima Peru on Sunday April 10th we were full of excitement and anticipation. We were off to meet a group of 35 adventure travel agents and companions in Iquitos, then cruise 2000 miles down the Amazon River to Manaus on the expedition ship called The Explorer. Little did I know that this trip held by Gap Adventures / Global Connections would be the most incredible trip I have ever had during my 18 years as a Travel Agent.
We flew from Vancouver to Dallas and after a change of plane, Dallas to Lima. American was very good, the only thing to keep in mind is that flights within North America no longer provide complimentary food however you are able to either purchase or bring food on board. On the International leg food is complimentary except for alcoholic beverages in economy class.
The time change for Peru is minimal and is only 2 hours ahead of Whistler. After leaving Vancouver in the morning and arriving that evening we felt fine even though the total flying time was just over 11 hours. Basically it’s a long day and then you’re really looking forward to a shower and some sleep.
Upon arrival into Lima and after collecting our luggage we were met by a representative from Gap Adventures / Global Connections and transferred to our hotel which was approximately 30 minutes away by bus. The hotel was the Las Castellana – a nice 3 star located in the quaint residential district of Miraflores. Although we were only at the hotel for approximately 4 hours this property provides good value and is well located for walking the charming streets of Miraflores.
Early the next morning as the excitement was growing we were off to the airport again for our flight with Lan Peru to Iquitos where we would start our Amazon adventure. Since we couldn’t board the ship until the afternoon and our arrival into Iquitos was early we were taken on a half day city tour. Iquitos is the largest jungle city of Peru and is only accessible by air or by the Amazon river. It was originally founded in the 1750s as a Jesuit mission. It grew steadily and there was a virtual population explosion in the 1880s during the rubber boom. A second boom occurred with the discovery of oil in the area and in recent years tourism has also begun to play an important part in the economy. The street vendors even though friendly can be a bit of a hassle as they try to sell you wares from trinkets to large bugs and insects, if you see something you like, feel free to barter.
The time that we were all eagerly waiting for had come……..we were transferred down to the pier by local bus and onto a ferry which took us out to The Explorer waiting for us in deeper water. What an impressive sight as we came closer and closer to her. The Explorer or as she is affectionately called – The Little Red Ship – is an expedition vessel used in the Antarctic during summer months and for the first time has been brought to the Amazon to run expedition cruises. The ship holds 108 passengers and 53 officers and crew. Its length is 240 ft and gross tonnage is 2398 grt with a cruising speed of 10.5 knots. Its small size enables access to places that other ships are unable to go.
All passenger cabins have an outside view with either a porthole or picture window, private bathroom with shower and individual climate control. There is also a lounge / bar with seating for 95 people, a library, a lecture hall with seating for 113 people, a dining room for 114 people allowing for one seating unlike other cruise ships, a doctors office, a small gym and sauna, small swimming pool, laundry services, telephone, fax and email. One thing to bear in mind is that there are on lifts or elevators and the decks are accessible only via stairways. The currency on board is USD for the purchase of gifts, drinks and incidentals. All meals are of course included and I must say the meals are truly 5 Star using local fresh produce and meats. It was some of the most amazing food I have ever eaten and now being home my meals are just not cutting it!!. The dress style is casual and there are 2 shipboard occasions – the captains welcome and farewell dinners but it is not mandatory to dress up.
Once on board we were assembled in the Magellan lounge for check in procedures and then to our cabins. We were introduced to some of the staff for the upcoming trip and given tomorrows itinerary, we then proceeded to dinner and finally sleep. One of the most exciting features was that all excursions were to be done by zodiac.
The ships daily logs below have been written by Ian Shaw – expedition staff. On every sailing Ian writes a daily log which is provided to each guest as part of their experience.
Tuesday 12th April
Our first day in the Amazon was an awakening in many ways. Ed’s dulcet tones waking us at 5:30am was just the start. We were exposed to the vast biological diversity of this great basin with a morning walk through the forest near Shishita. We were also poignantly awakened to the ongoing destruction of the rainforest at our landing site as a ship was loaded with the thick trunks of felled trees. Afterwards back on board it was time for the mandatory lifeboat drill. During lunch the ship was repositioned farther down the river. As soon as we were at anchor, dozens of people in dugout canoes paddled out to the stern and began trading their wares and fruits. We spend the afternoon in and around the town of Pevas. Our first visit was to a Bora village where we were entertained with a local dance and offered various handicrafts at their Maloka. A short walk to the nearby Huitoto village offered another batch of friendly faces. Strangely, there were no children about. There was however a distant screaming noise. Upon closer examination one could see our zodiacs racing around the river packed with shrieking kids on an aquatic roller coaster ride. A short trip down the tributary found us at the gallery of local artist Francisco Grippa. On our way we received another awakening in the form a a rainforest rain – torrential downpour. Mr Grippa’s beer made the wet ride back to the ship more tolerable. Just before dinner, the charming captain Ulrich Demel introduced himself and his senior officers. All in all a full and pace setting day for our expedition.
Wednesday 13th April
We did it – breakfast in Peru, lunch in Colombia and dinner in brazil. Another early morning wake up call greeted us at the mouth of the Rio Cajaru. The morning rain subsided handily just as we were loading the zodiacs into the water. Traveling up a narrow tributary, we were treated to rare sights such as scarlet macaws, an iguana and a sloth high in a tree. The drivers negotiated our boats into the flooded forest and beneath mammoth banyan trees. Local fisher could be seen on the river near small plantations of manioc. Back on the vessel, Simon our bird-man presented a slide show featuring his travels on the very edges of the Amazon basin in Ecuador. Just before 2pm were in position and cleared customs to enter into Colombia and the town of Leticia. As Colombia’s only port on the Amazon, Leticia was once notorious for its cocaine trafficking. These days are long gone due to enforcement efforts and we found a pleasant and friendly small city to greet us. Most people made the trip to the zoo and after there was ample time to visit the local markets. Another torrential downpour pummeled us just as it was time to head back and the bulk of the group arrived back wet but happy.
Thursday 14th April
With flesh eating fish, electric eels, the world’s biggest and deadliest snakes, vampire bats, poisonous toads, massive caimans and venomous spiders, the Amazon is notoriously dangerous. This reputation is largely undeserved and a product of sensationalism however: the Amazon is the home and source of life and livelihood of millions of people. There were many friendly sightings in our morning outing at Lago Sao Paulo including blue and yellow macaws, iguanas, gray river dolphins and the pink river dolphins and squirrel monkeys. The full diversity of the rainforest was brought out our attention though as one zodiac picked up an unexpected passenger. After much discussion by our naturalists, it was decided that it was in fact a tarantula. After posing for a few photographs, the spider was persuaded to leave the zodiac with the help of a paddle and a nervous driver. After lectures by ed our historian and Stefan our geologist, we again explored with our trusty zodiacs, this time at the parana of panelas. Another great excursion was had with a troop of squirrel monkeys, a photogenic iguana, a quaint village and a strategically placed sloth and we beat the rain back to the ship.
Friday 15th April
Today we began by exploring the river town of Jutai shortly after 9am. The most recent censure her puts the population of Jutai at just over 7000 but it is up near 20000 if you include the surrounding area. The town was abuzz with motorcycle taxis and schoolchildren. Apparently the local school had let the children out to gawk at the strange tourists who were gawking back at them. Hugo and ed led walking tours of the town but people were free to see the sights on their own. After lunch we repositioned up the Rio Jutai so that we could weave our zodiacs through the black water flooded forests known as Igapu. After that we raced our trusty little boats farther up the river to a channel with no current so that we could safely go swimming. The explorer continued up the river after us and came in a very narrow channel to receive us.
Saturday 16th April
This morning found our group going off in different directions. Ed and Stefan led a short walk near the shores of Lago Uara. Hugo and Alfredo traveled farther up the lake and along a small stream before disembarking for a longer walk deep into the forest. Simon took a few people seriously interested in birds for a 3 hour birding cruise. Finally ian took a small group dedicated to exploring zodiac style. A football game broke out between one boat and gang of local kids. Our doctor was called in to visit a sick child. We arrived at the ship in time to donate numerous school supplies, rubber boots and drums of fuel to the local community. Later in the day along the Rio Jacoto, we had a rain soaked wild ride up the river. Pushing logs and floating grass out of the way we threaded in and out of the tributary. Some of the wildlife was out dispite the rain and the highlights included squirrel monkeys and hoatzins. Once back on the ship and into dry clothes, the catering department treated us to a sumptuous back deck bbq. They had conveniently arranged for the rain to stop.
Sunday 17th April
The theme of our early morning outing was easily sloths, sloths and more sloths. At least a dozen different sloths were seen in the trees near Cuxiu Muni and one baby was even brought aboard a zodiac for closer inspection. Later in the morning we were entertained and informed with 2 more lectures – Simon on birding in brazil and ed on Amazon explorers. In the afternoon we braved a scorching Amazon sun to visit the community of Cuxiu Muni. The local ladies were busy with a football match as we arrived. Alfredo, Hugo and ed led walks around the village. The doctor was tending to a sick man and Simon was off chasing birds. An after dinner zodiac excursion was organized with spotlights to look for the red eyes of nocturnal hunters. We found the elusive potoos and other nighthawks and nightjars. We had a new look at the now familiar sloths in the spotlight but the highlight had to be the caimans. Our spotters expertly plucked spectacled and black caimans from the water while the drivers tried not to run them over.
Monday 18th April
This morning started with Stefans’ geological history of the Amazon and then continued with Alfredo’s discussion of plants of the Amazon and Ian’s talk on gaps Antarctic departures. Our afternoon zodiac excursions into the Rio Badajos turned out to be a highlight of the trip for many. If the previous morning’s theme was sloths, this afternoons theme was monkeys. Squirrel monkeys abounded and the elusive howler monkey was finally spotted. The boat with the piranha fisherman was pelted with fruits by a troop of frisky squirrel monkeys and witnessed fisticuffs where one monkey was toppled from his tree into the water below. A hawk swooped down and took their hard won fish from the waters surface. The ensuing discussion at the Captains farewell dinner seemed to be a general argument over who had a better zodiac cruise.
Tuesday 19th April
Our last early morning zodiac excursion began in the rain at the break of dawn. Poking around in the floating grass led to the discovery of several gigantic water lilies. Cutting a section off allowed us to see the thorny undersides of these floating wonders. Venturing farther up the river brought us to the community of Anama just as the local ferry, packed with slung hammocks was passing by. Some boats continued on up the river searching for wildlife while others explored the town and promoted cultural exchange. Several boats landed on the floating buildings to witness firsthand manioc being processed. It is grown in nearby plantations and must be pressed to purge the poisonous juices before being dried and cooked in large wok like wood fired pans. The resulting flour is a mainstay of the Caboclo peoples diet and used to make tasty bread.
End of the logs by Ian Shaw
After lunch it was the auction time in the lounge. At the end of the trip, the crew auction off the Captains key chart signed and stamped by him with the course noted on it, along with some other items not found in the gift store. The proceeds from the auction go to help the villages and people with supplies etc so it is a wonderful opportunity to be a part of. Tim and I were very fortunate to come away with the chart after a fun afternoon of bidding and I am happy that the funds are to be used in the way that they are.
Later in the afternoon we witnessed the meeting of the waters – the black water of the rio negro meeting the white water of the Amazon and this signals that we were now nearing Manaus.
By this time we have arrived into Manaus and whilst the ship was clearing customs we were preparing for dinner and then leaving the ship to wander round the city as it was a beautiful humid evening and after all the incredible food that we had eaten it was time for a good walk.
Manaus is a bustling port situated at the confluence of the Amazon and negro rivers 3degrees south of the equator and is home to over one million people. Points of interest are near to the waterfront. They include the Mercado municipal, the floating docks, the customs house and the opera house. The opera house is an impressive example of the past opulence of this city. On our final morning after breakfast and prior to our bus transfer to the airport we had a couple of hours to wander the city in the daylight and a highlight was the tour of the opera house.
This morning our final wake up call came and with it a feeling of sadness. What an amazing adventure we had been fortunate to be a part of and one which I personally would never forget. As we bid everyone goodby at the ship dock and made our way to the airport for our onward flights I was already making plans to travel on the Little Red Ship again. I remember at the beginning of the trip, a comment being made that we would all become attached to the Little Red Ship and now at the end of the journey, how spot on that comment was.